Boston, new love of my life. Just kidding, as if London would ever lose that distinction.  While our affair only lasted a mere five days, I fell a little bit in love nonetheless. It had the vibe that was a little bit London, and a little bit Philly, and that I guess means it has a unique personality all its own.  I’m sure some would disagree with my assessment because after all, I was only there for a short time, but I could see very much how I’d fit right in there like a glove. I was even asked for directions, something that, as a tourist, always flatters me.

Before heading out, like any self-respective food blogger, I collected from multiple sources recommendations, and I’m proud to say that I hit at least one thing on everyone’s list. Since these are trusted sources, I will share all their suggestions, and maybe if you head to Boston, you will pick up where I left off.  Despite not hitting everything, the fit of my jeans suggests I was a success nonetheless.

Mom came along for the ride, so we’ll also be sharing some fun see the world things, too. Having more days to play than I, she did a little better.  So here’s what to do, what to eat.

Talk a walk down the Freedom Trail. It’s a short one, but it’s astounding how much history is packed into a mere 2.5 miles.  Though you’ll be easily spotted as a tourist following the brick red line through the city, it’s full of historical fun facts and good food. It does, for instance, traipse through the North End (aka Little Italy) all the way to Bunker Hill, and on that path you’ll find some most excellent food.

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Friend dates are the best, don’t you think? This one was even great because I got this cardamom pound cake out of it.

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Now that I’ve told you what I saw and did in Reykjavik, let’s talk about what I ate. Because that is just as (or more….depending on your point of view) important.

Despite knowing that poor planning in this area could potentially lead to disastrous ends, I didn’t do a whole lot of research on food before this trip. In my ignorant mind, there were three things to eat:  whale, puffin and fermented shark.  Weird, but there it was, my meager to-do list.  I’m not typically squeamish when it comes to food and I’m willing to try anything once, so as unconventional as those choices might be, I was ready.

Whilst on our city tour, Martinn took the opportunity to point out that those aren’t really traditional Icelandic dishes and schooled us on what Icelanders really eat.  In fact, he himself had never had puffin and said that fermented shark tasted like the most rotten cheese.  And with that, there went two-thirds of my list.  Long live the puffins.

The whale, on the other hand, comes with an interesting story. Apparently whale poaching is internationally outlawed, and Iceland downright refuses to oblige due to the lucrative export of whale meat to Japan.  The ban is prompted by the inhumane ways that whales are killed- spear to the head, subsequent bleed out.  Sounds pretty horrible to me.  And while Iceland continues to do as it pleases in regard to this practice, there is a movement to stop it.  Again, according to Martinn,  whale meat isn’t really something the locals eat at all, but it exists in restaurants mainly for tourists. Throughout the city, “whale friendly” signs were posted in various restaurants. Well, no need to kill whales on my behalf, so there went item #3.

Seems that the more traditional eats are horse meat- sweet, rich, super lean and soft– and lamb.  No horse meat consumed here, but I did eat the lamb on more than one occasion, and it was fantastic, but…different than here in the U.S.  While the flavor is similar to what we’d find back home, the texture and color reminded me more of the meat that comes off one of the smoked turkey legs you’d find at Disney or at a Renaissance fair. You know what I’m talking about.  Anyway, it was more pink than brown or red and was the most tender lamb you’d ever find.  The sheep did look extra happy as we drove through the countryside, maybe happy sheep = happy lamb?  Whatever they’re doing, they’re doing right.

Ok, lesson over.

With no list to guide our stomachs, Lettuce and I were at a loss on where exactly we were supposed to eat.  Lucky for us, our Air BnB apartment had a local restaurant guide, with links to menus and websites for ultimate menu stalking and informed decisions.  And on more than one occasion, it saved the day.  Here’s where and what we ate, most on or just off the main pedestrian street Laugavegur.  I strongly suggest you follow in our soggy footsteps. (more…)