A bit overdue, it’s time to tell you about my last little jaunt to Providence. It’s hard to believe in just a few short weeks we’ve traded our rakes for snow boots, but here we are, looking at Providence in all it’s fall glory.
Like spokes on a bicycle, the highways that radiate out of the Northeast’s biggest cities stretch far, carrying urbanites to coastal towns like Newport or Provincetown, often bypassing one the of the area’s hidden gems: Providence. Travelers may give it maybe a glance and a wave as they drive by, but probably not much of a second thought. However, in three short days, I realized that Providence was more than just a stop through, but a worthy destination in its own right.
This capital city is perfectly situation on Narragansett Bay, and apt to take advantage of the same cultural and natural landmarks that its nearby larger cities boast, but with the small town, college town friendliness (home to no less than 8 colleges and universities) and charm that you’re probably more likely to find in the Midwest rather than the East coast.
Providence’s ambiance is wholly unique; some of the oldest buildings in the nation house more modern amenities and the whole city shows signs of a pervasive art scene. Banks become restaurants, mill houses are now shops and many of the buildings on the east end are held by the renowned Rhode Island School of Design (“RIS-D”). Walking through downtown, tucked down corners and allies, you might pass a building’s whose once-sad looking facade takes on new life thanks to the city’s Avenue Concept, where artists from around the world paint murals that catch one’s eye from every corner of the city.
Waterfire, a spectacular art display on the Providence River that occurs approximately 14 times a year, is certainly worth standing amongst crowds to watch.
Like many cities, Providence is its neighborhoods, each sporting a unique personality, distinct architecture and food scene. It’s hard to choose where to head first, but, from the city center, each neighborhood is walkable, and also, according to more than one local, extremely safe. Great news, and if you’re like me, nothing works up an appetite like a good walk, and thankfully Providence provides plenty of options, for every taste, budget and craving.
Before you start your day, head into Yogleni’s for a healthy treat. This eatery/grocery store has the tastiest Greek yogurt (in a multitude of flavors!) outside of Greece- fitting since this restaurant’s only other location in IN Greece! If you need more of a sugar rush to get you through the early morning hours, duck into Knead for any one of their amazing donuts, or Sydney for their maple walnut ricotta toast. Or, if you’ve got time to unwind for a few hours on a weekend morning, Rogue Island is your ticket for brunch: local ingredients spun into the most delicious breakfast options you never knew you always wanted, and the perfect thing to fuel your day’s walk.
Longing for those college feels? Take a hike on the East side up College Hill, home of Brown University and the kitschy vibe that student life afford. If you time it right, a pile of leaves just might be waiting to be tossed about.
Continue down Thayer, grab a coffee (and do some good!) from Blue State, and get ready for an aromatic assault, with smells of tacos, curry, Korean chicken and waffle cones all melding together to create the most delicious smells you have ever smelled!
After you’ve explored the ivies, continue walking down Benefit towards Wickenden where you’ll find enough shopping and snacks to occupy an afternoon. The Coffee Exchange will have a line out the door, but whether the season calls for iced or hot, you won’t be disappointed (ps. they have four different flavors of whipped cream for your hot chocolate. Choose wisely!). If you need more sustenance, The Ducky & Bunny will set you straight.
While the Financial District quiets on the weekends, the nearby Convention Center prevents it from being a total food desert, meaning that you’ll find plenty of places to pop in to grab a sweet, a pile of fries, a glass of wine, or a full out gut-busting dinner. Friskie Fries is, in my opinion, the best place to grab an afternoon pick me up, and you might just find yourself back there for a late night snack.
Just across the highway from Downtown is Federal Hill, also known as Providence’s Little Italy. A plethora of restaurants and bakeries are waiting to lure you inside and feed you! However, if you want goodies to go, Venda Ravioli will set you up to cook your own Italian feast at home.
If the artist scene is more your thing, head to the up and coming Olneyville. Located just west of Federal Hill, abandoned mills have since been converted to lofts, theatres and studios, giving the area’s resident painters, ceramicists, musicians, designers and performers a place to shine. If you’re looking to grab a bite or a brew, head to Troop.
Order up a cocktail, a sandwich and a bowl of street noodles to share, guaranteed to get you some new friends.
With or without the noodles, Providence will welcome you back, and it’s an invitation you’ll be happy to accept.
Expenses for this trip were covered by Lou Hammond. However, the tales are mine to tell.
