Gateway to the Arctic, Tromsø

Gateway to the Arctic, Tromsø

Hello from Tromsø, Norway!

A few weeks ago, in a somewhat spur of the moment move, V and I decided to go chase the Northern Lights (the “Lights,” as I’m going to call them).  Our initial inklings had us heading to Lapland, Finland (the North Pole!) but after a little bit of research, we found that northern Norway was the better place to go.

Less than 24 hours after that initial “hey, do you want to go?” text, everything was booked, and we started our journey in the same town many travellers for hundreds of years before us have, in Tromsø.

Since we were going specifically to see the the Lights, which rely on perfectly clear skies, I had been psychotically checking the weather and was thoroughly confused when I kept seeing that sunrise would occur on a very specific date, days ahead – January 15th. Chalking it up to an error on the app, I shook my head without giving it much concern.

As we would come to learn – it wasn’t an app error – but truly because the sun would not rise again in Norway until January 15th!  From approximately November 27-January 15th (this year), the sun will not come out tomorrow, an occurrence called the polar night– thereby resulting in total darkness. Because we were on the tail end of this unknown-to-us phenomenon, we lucked out and were here to see approximately one hour of sunlight each day – with sunrise at 11:35, and sunset at 12:30.

Making do with mostly dark and endless rain, we set off to explore this charming town.

A free walking tour is always a good idea!

Tromso cathedral

We learned that historically, due to its location, it was a common stop on trade routes, and for those wishing to make their way into the great white north.  Therefore, this tiny metropolis was at the forefront of technology, food and fashion relative to other parts of Norway – even garnering the nickname “the Paris of the north.”

Tromso harbor

Today this town of approximately 78,000 people is still the largest in Northern Norway, and boasts an international university, delicious food, culture (there was an international film festival in town while we were there) and – thanks to the spectacular Lights in the winter, and 24 hour days in the summer – remains a tourism hot spot.

Tromso art

king crab

Despite the rainy weather, when the sun did peek out, the views are stunning.

And to combat the endless darkness, twinkle lights shine brightly throughout the town, giving it a feeling of perpetual Christmas.

So utterly charming!

Tips for traveling to/from Tromsø

  • Remember that you’re going WAY north, and some flights aren’t available every day. I saved myself two layovers by leaving two days earlier than I wanted to, and especially in the winter, I feel like 1 layover >> 3.  Be flexible on your travel days and make sure you pack/wear what you need for the long haul.
  • The Airport Express bus from the Tromso airport makes three stops downtown in the city centre and picks up just outside baggage claim. You can buy your ticket online in advance or right on the bus.  It couldn’t be easier and drops off within a five minute walk from most downtown hotels.
  • Alternatively, take the city bus by downloading the Svipper app to buy your tickets there. I couldn’t see a place to buy them on the bus itself.
  • The official Visit Tromso is endlessly helpful, and you can even book tours through them.

What should I pack for a winter trip to Tromsø?

  • Be prepared for any weather, so I would argue a good waterproof winter coat with good insulation is a must.  I have one similar to this, and it was key. I’d also advise bringing a windproof umbrella.
  • Spikes! We had bad luck with rain and snow, so the constant melt/thaw left for some very slippery streets. Trust me that you’ll use them and if you live anywhere in the north, they’re a worthy investment.
  • Bathing suit. Yup, you read that correctly.  Sauna and spa life is a things and you may find yourself with an opportunity to polar plunge and you wouldn’t want to miss that! Plus, I took the occasion to hit up the local public pool/sauna when I was waiting for V since it was so cold and rainy out, and I’m so glad I did!
  • Head lamp.  It is dark starting at around 2 pm, so we found it helpful to have some extra light when walking around.
  • Layers.  I feel like it’s obvious with any sort of activity-filled trip, but I used all the layers I brought. Especially if you’re going to see the Lights, you may be sitting outside in frigid temps for hours (on our second night, we were outside in 0 degree weather for 5 hours, and while I was cursing the ski gear when I was packing, I was so glad I had it). 

Stay tuned for more Norwegian adventures!



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