We just got back from Paris yesterday, I’m bringing a little bit of that vacation vibe home to ya’ll. I’m doing that with these Craquelin Cream Puffs (Choux aux Craquelin).
I actually made cream puffs years and years and years ago- it was actually one of the first French recipes I made on my way around the world. However, after many, many hours of watching GBBO, I figured it was time to get reacquainted with choux pastry and crème patisserie. I’m throwing in a crunch, sugary twist to keep things interesting this time.
Now if you also watch GBBO, you know that patisserie is a given and that at least once a season the contestants need to put their own spin on choux pastry. However, any time one of them dares to be bold by making a craquelin topping, things to awry. When I saw that the local baking school had a choux with craquelin class on it’s calendar, I knew Mom and I had to go.
So what’s the deal with craquelin and how does everyone mess it up? Would I, too? Let’s find out.
Turns out, craquelin is nothing more than a sugar + butter + flour mixture that comes together to form a thin crust on top of each choux puff. It gives it a little something- something tot the finish baked puff. The thing that makes it so…tricky is that it has to be just the right thickness- not too thin to burn before the rest of the choux has cooked, but not so fat that it prevents the choux from rising properly. According to our wise teacher, the appropriate thickness is approximately the size of a quarter.
With that as our guide, we got to work. I’m not kidding you when I say that this recipe is work – but more time intensive than anything. You’ve seen it before though – the choux is the same recipe as the gougeres. Make the craquelin, making the choux, make the pastry cream. In that order. It’s a morning-long activity that is well worth the pay off. These babes were delicious.
Classic French Craquelin Cream Puffs (Choux au Craquelin) are homemade choux pastry filled with homemade pastry cream and topped with craquelin for crunch
By: Chrissy
Ingredients
For the Craquelin:
3 TB/43 g unsalted butter at room temperature
¼ cup/50 g light brown sugar
1/3 cup + 2 TB/50 g all-purpose flour
For the cream puffs:
¼ cup/57.5 g Water, room temperature (about 73 degrees)
¼ cup/57.5 g Whole milk, room temperature
¼ cup/57.5 g Unsalted butter, room temperature
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp sugar
½ cup + 2 ½ TB/90g all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
For the pastry cream:
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup cornstarch
5 egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup sugar
1/8 tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp vanilla bean paste
1 tsp vanilla extract
¼ cup unsalted butter
Directions
Step 1Make the craquelin: In a medium bowl mix together the butter and sugar with a wooden spoon until full combined and light in color. Add the flour and make a smooth dough.
Step 2Roll the dough between two pieces of parchment into a 10” circle, about as thick as a quarter.
Step 3Freeze dough for at least an hour and then cut into 24 1” rounds, just before baking the pastry
Step 4Make the dough: Place the water, milk, butter, salt and sugar into a medium saucepan over high heat. Bring to a rolling boil, ensuring that all the butter has melted.
Step 5Immediately remove from the stove and add the flour and mix well with a wooden spoon until completely combined.
Step 6Return to the stove and continue cooking and stirring continually until a film forms at the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat.
Step 7Preheat the oven to 400F.
Step 8Place the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer, and beat on medium-high (about 5) speed about 5 minutes until the mixture has cooled. Add the eggs one at a time, making sure each is incorporated completely before adding the next egg. Once you add the first egg, check the texture to make sure the dough is thick and smooth and makes a “v-shape” when you lift your spatula. If it’s still too think, add the last egg a little at a time until it is the correct consistency – you don’t want the dough to be too runny.
Step 9Using a 2 TB ice cream or cookie scoop, place them evenly spaced on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, leaving about 1 ½ inches between each puff.
Step 10Place a circle of craquelin on top of each puff.
Step 11Bake 20-24 minutes until golden brown. Do not open the oven door before 18 minutes! Let cool completely before filling with pastry cream.
Step 12Unbaked pastry can be frozen and then baked as above, keeping them on the counter only as long as it takes for the oven to preheat. No need to thaw completely.
Step 13Make the pastry cream: In a medium saucepan off the stove, dissolved the cornstarch into the milk. Add the yolks and whisk until completely combined and incorporated. Add the cream, salt sugar and vanilla bean paste (not the extract!).
Step 14Place saucepan on the stove over medium heat and bring to a light boil. Cook one minute.
Step 15Remove from heat and transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer to stop the cooking. Using the whisky attachment, beat until cool and shiny, about 4 minutes. Add the vanilla extract.
Step 16Transfer to a storage container and place plastic wrap directly on the top of the custard. Cool in the refrigerator until at least room temperature until filling the baked choux.
Step 17Place cooled cream in a piping bag. Poke a hole in the bottom of each puff with a sharp paring knife and fill each puff completely. Serve immediately.
Thank you, Saturday. It’s been a long week, full of “new parent” things. Now, before you people-parents get all angry, I’m not trying to minimize what you do, but I’ve learned this week that being a pet parent can be a whole lotta stressful, too. […]
